Refined, layered cuisine of great subtlety . . . can Japanese haute cuisine find a resonant synergy in the Fleuries of Villa Ponciago?
We were fortunate to take part in a dazzling show of precision and finesse with the team of the high-end London restaurant Saki, led by Ayako Watanabe, who orchestrated the experience around our Fleurie la Réserve and Fleurie Cuvée Hauts du Py.
Saki’s approach to Japan’s high cuisine is simultaneously traditional and contemporary, executed under the capable hand of chef Onozaki classically trained in the art of art of Kaiseki (a term referring to the traditional tasting menu of several successive dishes which encompasses every facet of Japanese haute cuisine, as well as to the talent and technical expertise essential to its preparation), with an excellent wine list that is personal, comprehensive and modern.
Ayako advocates an approach to marrying wine and food that brings together harmonies of flavour and seeks to heighten sensory pleasure: “I’m not interested in suggesting a simple, classic match of grilled poultry or white meat with your wines. For me, a sublime accord goes further: it provides a multi-dimensional experience.”
Ayako prefers an illustration to the rule, experience to discussion. May the text and images that follow do justice to this unforgettable gastronomic moment.
“Tuna Zuké Nigiri” and Villa Ponciago Fleurie la Réserve 2009
The first accord between this exquisite sushi and a red wine might seem surprising.
“Generally, sushi-red wine matches don’t work: either the wine overrides the delicate flavours of the dish or the acidity of the vinegared rice throws the wine out of balance. The lovely acidic framework of the wine, and of course its delicacy, convinced us to explore this accord.”
The choice focuses on the zuké (marinated) sushi . . . a revelation: the texture of the tuna, at the same time sweet and dense, transcends the dense texture of the wine, and the wine’s fruit and slightly spicy nuance explode on contact with the subtle marinade.
An accord of great precision made possible by the skill of the team: a conversation between the ethereal acidity of the rice (superbly balanced by the sweet spices of the marinade) and the fresh vivacity of the wine. A match made in heaven.
“Tofu agedashi“ and Villa Ponciago Fleurie Cuvée Les Hauts du Py 2009
Refined wines coexist happily with vegetables, which usually flatter them. Tofu is a genuine test of talent and a tradition of elevated Japanese cuisine: prepared well, its texture is a sumptuous foundation to carry delicate spices . . . prepared badly, it utterly lacks interest.
Here, we indulge in a sensory experience of exceptional finesse and refinement, an interplay of textures and a harmony of sweet spices. The balance is perfect (fruit, spice, acidity), but above all the pleasure of finesse dominates.
Guinea Fowl Kiji-Yaki and Villa Ponciago Fleurie Cuvée le Hauts du Py 2009
The match between poultry and Villa Ponciago Fleurie is a classic and one of the easiest to do well when prepared with finesse, simply grilled or served with a light sauce.
In this case, the Saki team set themselves a difficult task . . . no doubt to show the height of their skills with this last dish, by delving into the tradition grilled food (Yakimono) with a lovely guinea fowl scented with very delicate Nama-Shichimi spices. Nama Shichimi is a blend of 7 varieties of fresh spices and herbs from Japan.
This accord works in two explosive stages. First, the palate perceives the velvety tenderness of the guinea fowl that beautifully echoes the silky texture of the wine. The impressions of sweet spices follow, incorporated first in an unctuous, ever so slightly sweet sauce and then applied to the guinea fowl as a light dusting just prior to serving. These very subtle spices play as a harmonious foil to the intense red berry aspects of the wine, but also to its delicacy and precise focus. A standing ovation of flavours for this inspired and perfectly executed tasting!
If we arrived intrigued by the idea of novel accords, we left completely captivated by the deftness of this true gastronomic experience. If you are a chef skilled in the demanding art of Japanese haute cuisine, we encourage you to try this lovely harmony of wine and food at home. Otherwise, do not miss a culinary tour de force at Saki!
Many, many thanks to Ayako Watanabe and the team at Saki for this unforgettable experience.
Saki Bar & Food Emporium / 4, West Smithfield London EC1A 9JX / +44 (0) 20 7489 7033
http://www.saki-food.com/
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